The most exotic items are the Ostrich leather jackets, seen here:
Here are the Birkin Bags:
Here are some Crocodile & Ostrich iphone cases:
And some others:
Sunday, January 30, 2011
New Exotic Leather Items: Crocodile and Ostrich
At iwatchjapan we have discovered a treasure trove of exotic leather handbags and exotic leather goods. They are mainly Crocodile and Ostrich. We found them in Vietnam, Vietnam produces some of the best bags in the world. They are all made by hand and use the very best hardware available. iwatchjapan will be offering these great products for sale in March 2011. The bags that we will be initially be concentrating on are those that mimic the most famous designs made by hermes. All the designs are made with the exact same quality and materials just lacking the Hermes name. And they are available at less than 10% of the name brand equivalent. We will buy the bags and inspect every bag before shipping from our Japan Store.
The most exotic items are the Ostrich leather jackets, seen here:
The most exotic items are the Ostrich leather jackets, seen here:
Friday, January 28, 2011
Louis Vuitton Dust Bags
Care basics for Omega Watches
1) Because the crown may not screw down on your model, these watches are water resistant, not water proof . Avoid wearing in hot bath or swimming. Or even the shower. I only wear my Omega professional 300m-1000m watch all the time because it has a screw down crown.
2) Avoid caustic chemicals.
3) Have your watch serviced by a professional every 2-4 years. The reason these watches are so good is that if taken care of you can keep them forever.
4) The professional Moon Watch is a manual wind watch. Wind it about 35-4o times towards 12 every 40 hrs of use. The Reduced models are automatic.
5) The second hand may stall or stop after the first rotation after being idle a day or so on the Reduced Model, don’t panic, there just isn’t enough energy in the springs yet. Tap it lightly, reset it to zero, tap it lightly against your palm a few times and start again, if it stalls again just lightly tap it through. Lightly, always gentle.
Buffing out Scratches From Hesalite Crystal
Note: This works for me, you do it at your own risk.
Probably one of the best polishing compounds I've ever used for polishing plastic watch crystals is a product called "Simichrome." Find your nearest Harley-Davidson dealer and they're bound to have some on hand. It's a pinkish paste that comes in a red and yellow tube, like a toothpaste tube. Squeeze a little bit on a damp, compressed cotton ball and, Presto!, you've got the perfect scratch remover for watch crystals.
Actually, Simichrome is a pretty good polish for just about anything that won't react adversely with ammonia (judging by the smell of the stuff, I'd say ammonia is one of the ingredients).
For true glass or crystal crystals, you might try using a product like Glass Revive with a Dremel tool and a cotton-fabric buffing wheel. Run the Dremel tool (use a variable-speed model) at the lowest RPM for best results.
Stainless Steel Watch Polishin
Buffing out Scratches from steel case and bezel
Note: This works for me, you do it at your own risk.
Anyone owning a stainless steel Watch is no stranger to everyday scratches. The polished cases especially seem prone to scuffs and marks on the bezel and case. While brushed cases can be 'rebrushed' the smooth surfaces take a bit more effort.
Since the occurrence of scratches is so frequent, I'd rather not pay a watchmaker to buff the case every few weeks and using a motor tool is a bit beyond my skill level. I wanted to find a practical way to polish out my polished watchcase myself and by hand. Practical meaning that it was fast, easy and effective. There are many polishes and pastes on the market, and rather than review the ones that didn't work for me, I decided to review the ones that did. The following is a review of two polishes that work very well on stainless and are easy to use. Please read through the entire review before attempting to polish your watch.
The first is Flitz Metal Polish, www.flitz.com. The one I use comes in a tube and is available at most hardware stores.
I find that Flitz works best for scratches and scuffs. I've used Flitz now for over two years and it's worked every time. I've also had some success in taking the 'harsh' edge off of dings, though I'd recommend dings be professionally polished out. Remember, all polishes are abrasives and some can leave 'polishing swirls'. Flitz will leave swirls after intensive polishing and shouldn't be used "every day". Which leads to my review of the second product, Cape Cod Polishing Cloths.
These cloths come pre-treated with a polishing compound. They are available in both a resealable pouch and a tin, and are also available at most hardware stores. The polish on these cloths is not as abrasive as Flitz but does a fine job getting out hairline scratches and can be used as a follow up to Flitz or another polish to remove 'swirls'. As a bonus, the Cape Cod polish leaves a protective residue that keeps the metal shinier longer. I've even used the Cape Cod on my Global kitchen knives with phenomenal success.
POLISHING TECHNIQUE
In dealing with most things, 'less is more' is the best/safest principal. Remember that even though you're doing it by hand, these compounds are removing metal. No matter what you use, try the least abrasive solution first til you get a feel for what the compound does and for what types of scratches it works best. Sometimes just rubbing with a soft towel will do wonders to a minor scratch.
I recommend removing any leather straps before polishing as the polish will stain. Wash the case thoroughly in warm water and mild soap or dishwashing detergent. You can even use a soft toothbrush to scrub the case. This will remove any oils and dirt that can also cause scratches. Buff dry with a towel and see if the watch really needs to be polished. Sometimes a good washing is all you'll need *Tip: I prefer to hold the watchcase with a cloth versus my hand (after trying out these polishes you'll see why).
Using Flitz: I generally apply a small amount to a cloth, (don't laugh but old underwear seems to work best for texture and absorbency) and with my finger on the other side rub with medium pressure along the directions of the scratch or scuff. The cloth will turn black fairly quickly, and you may need to reapply the polish on a clean section. On a polished case, if the area allows, I'll rub over the area again this time in small circles. You can tell pretty quickly whether the scratch is fading or not. Again, if the cloth becomes too black, reapply the polish using a clean section. If I'm satisfied with the result I'll apply a light coat over the entire watch case to even out the finish. *Note: You may want to avoid the crown and crown guard as these areas are particularly difficult to get the polish residue out of. Don't get in a rush and pay careful attention to the shape and curves of the case-you don't want to polish down any corners that are supposed to be there-i.e. the small edge on the bezel in area directly level with the crystal-best to follow the contours of the case. Give the case a good buffing with a clean section of cloth, you'll notice that it takes two or three passes to get all the polish residue buffed out. Pay careful attention to the area immediately around the crystal and where the bezel meets the case-use your fingernail under the cloth to get the polish out of these areas. I wouldn't bother with polishing the case back, but if you do, pay close attention to following the pattern of the brushed finish.
I follow this up by polishing the case with Cape Cod polishing cloths. Since the cloths are pretreated, I like to cut the large cloth into two-inch squares that are easier to handle.
Using Cape Cod cloths: Start the same way as above, rub with the scratch and then again using a circular motion. If the scratches are really fine, rub softly, otherwise, rub harder-this is something you'll get a better feel for the more you do it. I will usually buff off the first application of Cape Cod completely, then apply again, this time using light pressure and following the lines of the case, i.e. following the bezel all the way around and rubbing the sides of the case in a back and forth motion. For the final buffing, use a soft terry towel, again, using a fingernail to get into the grooves around the crystal and bezel.
The shine you'll see on your watch will rival the shine it had in the dealer's case!
As I've gained confidence in using these two polishes, I can usually sit down and polish out my 6 yr old Omega Moon Watch case in about 20 minutes, start to finish.
Thank you again and enjoy your watch
Some Snaps of my 6 yr old Omega Moon Watch :
2) Avoid caustic chemicals.
3) Have your watch serviced by a professional every 2-4 years. The reason these watches are so good is that if taken care of you can keep them forever.
4) The professional Moon Watch is a manual wind watch. Wind it about 35-4o times towards 12 every 40 hrs of use. The Reduced models are automatic.
5) The second hand may stall or stop after the first rotation after being idle a day or so on the Reduced Model, don’t panic, there just isn’t enough energy in the springs yet. Tap it lightly, reset it to zero, tap it lightly against your palm a few times and start again, if it stalls again just lightly tap it through. Lightly, always gentle.
Buffing out Scratches From Hesalite Crystal
Note: This works for me, you do it at your own risk.
Probably one of the best polishing compounds I've ever used for polishing plastic watch crystals is a product called "Simichrome." Find your nearest Harley-Davidson dealer and they're bound to have some on hand. It's a pinkish paste that comes in a red and yellow tube, like a toothpaste tube. Squeeze a little bit on a damp, compressed cotton ball and, Presto!, you've got the perfect scratch remover for watch crystals.
Actually, Simichrome is a pretty good polish for just about anything that won't react adversely with ammonia (judging by the smell of the stuff, I'd say ammonia is one of the ingredients).
For true glass or crystal crystals, you might try using a product like Glass Revive with a Dremel tool and a cotton-fabric buffing wheel. Run the Dremel tool (use a variable-speed model) at the lowest RPM for best results.
Stainless Steel Watch Polishin
Buffing out Scratches from steel case and bezel
Note: This works for me, you do it at your own risk.
Anyone owning a stainless steel Watch is no stranger to everyday scratches. The polished cases especially seem prone to scuffs and marks on the bezel and case. While brushed cases can be 'rebrushed' the smooth surfaces take a bit more effort.
Since the occurrence of scratches is so frequent, I'd rather not pay a watchmaker to buff the case every few weeks and using a motor tool is a bit beyond my skill level. I wanted to find a practical way to polish out my polished watchcase myself and by hand. Practical meaning that it was fast, easy and effective. There are many polishes and pastes on the market, and rather than review the ones that didn't work for me, I decided to review the ones that did. The following is a review of two polishes that work very well on stainless and are easy to use. Please read through the entire review before attempting to polish your watch.
The first is Flitz Metal Polish, www.flitz.com. The one I use comes in a tube and is available at most hardware stores.
I find that Flitz works best for scratches and scuffs. I've used Flitz now for over two years and it's worked every time. I've also had some success in taking the 'harsh' edge off of dings, though I'd recommend dings be professionally polished out. Remember, all polishes are abrasives and some can leave 'polishing swirls'. Flitz will leave swirls after intensive polishing and shouldn't be used "every day". Which leads to my review of the second product, Cape Cod Polishing Cloths.
These cloths come pre-treated with a polishing compound. They are available in both a resealable pouch and a tin, and are also available at most hardware stores. The polish on these cloths is not as abrasive as Flitz but does a fine job getting out hairline scratches and can be used as a follow up to Flitz or another polish to remove 'swirls'. As a bonus, the Cape Cod polish leaves a protective residue that keeps the metal shinier longer. I've even used the Cape Cod on my Global kitchen knives with phenomenal success.
POLISHING TECHNIQUE
In dealing with most things, 'less is more' is the best/safest principal. Remember that even though you're doing it by hand, these compounds are removing metal. No matter what you use, try the least abrasive solution first til you get a feel for what the compound does and for what types of scratches it works best. Sometimes just rubbing with a soft towel will do wonders to a minor scratch.
I recommend removing any leather straps before polishing as the polish will stain. Wash the case thoroughly in warm water and mild soap or dishwashing detergent. You can even use a soft toothbrush to scrub the case. This will remove any oils and dirt that can also cause scratches. Buff dry with a towel and see if the watch really needs to be polished. Sometimes a good washing is all you'll need *Tip: I prefer to hold the watchcase with a cloth versus my hand (after trying out these polishes you'll see why).
Using Flitz: I generally apply a small amount to a cloth, (don't laugh but old underwear seems to work best for texture and absorbency) and with my finger on the other side rub with medium pressure along the directions of the scratch or scuff. The cloth will turn black fairly quickly, and you may need to reapply the polish on a clean section. On a polished case, if the area allows, I'll rub over the area again this time in small circles. You can tell pretty quickly whether the scratch is fading or not. Again, if the cloth becomes too black, reapply the polish using a clean section. If I'm satisfied with the result I'll apply a light coat over the entire watch case to even out the finish. *Note: You may want to avoid the crown and crown guard as these areas are particularly difficult to get the polish residue out of. Don't get in a rush and pay careful attention to the shape and curves of the case-you don't want to polish down any corners that are supposed to be there-i.e. the small edge on the bezel in area directly level with the crystal-best to follow the contours of the case. Give the case a good buffing with a clean section of cloth, you'll notice that it takes two or three passes to get all the polish residue buffed out. Pay careful attention to the area immediately around the crystal and where the bezel meets the case-use your fingernail under the cloth to get the polish out of these areas. I wouldn't bother with polishing the case back, but if you do, pay close attention to following the pattern of the brushed finish.
I follow this up by polishing the case with Cape Cod polishing cloths. Since the cloths are pretreated, I like to cut the large cloth into two-inch squares that are easier to handle.
Using Cape Cod cloths: Start the same way as above, rub with the scratch and then again using a circular motion. If the scratches are really fine, rub softly, otherwise, rub harder-this is something you'll get a better feel for the more you do it. I will usually buff off the first application of Cape Cod completely, then apply again, this time using light pressure and following the lines of the case, i.e. following the bezel all the way around and rubbing the sides of the case in a back and forth motion. For the final buffing, use a soft terry towel, again, using a fingernail to get into the grooves around the crystal and bezel.
The shine you'll see on your watch will rival the shine it had in the dealer's case!
As I've gained confidence in using these two polishes, I can usually sit down and polish out my 6 yr old Omega Moon Watch case in about 20 minutes, start to finish.
Thank you again and enjoy your watch
Some Snaps of my 6 yr old Omega Moon Watch :
Tax basics for importing and shopping in foreign countries
Buying goods on the Internet is an increasingly popular way of shopping. And iwatchjapan offers you an excellent way to save money and time on finding and purchasing brand name bags and designer watches at a significant savings.
But remember, when you buy an item on the internet from a country other than where you live, the item must be "imported" to you from that country. When a seller tells you that your items price includes shipping and handling, remember that they are paying to package and send you the item from their country to your address. But when the item arrives in your country the customs service, a government agency of your country, may charge you a customs fee on the item. The seller has no control over this and is very difficult to anticipate. They vary greatly, You can expect to pay on value about:
USA : 7%-10%
Canada : 8%
EU: 10-15%
These fees will have to be paid when the item is delivered or received at the post office. Like I said the seller has no control over this so remember it is up to you to anticipate these charges. Make sure you purchase your online item from a buyer with a good reputation for international shipping, like iwatchjapan, and that they will provide you with a tracking number that you can use to track the progress of your item.
This is done to ensure that your country receives money for taxation. Most countries have a minimum limit whereby items with a value under that limit are are not taxed. Then custom duties are based on the items category and wether or not your country produces the same products.
If your country has a strong leather industry, then the leather industry in your country forces the government to increase import duties to make other countries companies products competing in the same market more expensive. It is a way that companies force their governments to protect local markets and inhibit foreign trade. I am against it of course because it hurts the consumer and allows local industries to be less competitive. The US auto makers in the 1970's is a good example.
Customs duty - this is usually charged as a percentage of the value. The percentage varies depending on the type of goods and their country of origin. Duty is charged on the price paid for the goods including any local sales taxes plus postage, packing and insurance costs. However, postage is excluded from the calculation for duty on gifts sent by post except for Express Mail Service (EMS).
Under international postal agreements the sender must complete a customs declaration which in most cases should be affixed to the package. The declaration includes a description of the goods, the value and whether they are gifts or commercial items. Any Post Office abroad should be able to give advice to the sender.
Example: The EU. Markets in the EU are very protective. And import duties are high.
Most goods arriving in the EU from outside the EU are liable to any or all of the following taxes:
* customs duty
* excise duty
* import VAT
and must be paid whether:
* you purchase the goods or receive them as a gift;
* the goods are new or used (including antiques)
* the goods are for your private use or for sale
Most goods arriving in the UK from outside the EU are liable to any or all of the following taxes:
* customs duty
* excise duty
* import VAT
and must be paid whether:
* you purchase the goods or receive them as a gift;
* the goods are new or used (including antiques)
* the goods are for your private use or for sale
Goods sent as a gift are not free of import duties and import VAT. However, customs duty will not be collected if the amount is less than £7, and import VAT is not chargeable if:
* the value of the gift does not exceed £36
* the customs declaration is completed correctly
* the gift has been sent from a private person outside the EU to a private person
(s) in their country
* the gift is for the use of either yourself or your family
* there is no commercial or trade element and the gift has not been paid for either
directly or indirectly
* the gift is of an occasional nature only eg for a birthday or anniversary.
Fast Parcel Operators may charge you for processing your package through Customs. These charges are normally collected together with any duty/taxes on delivery but they are not Customs duties. If you need to know the exact cost of these extra charges in advance, you should contact the seller and ask which carrier they will be using to send your goods. You can then contact the carrier and ask what their charges will be.
But remember, when you buy an item on the internet from a country other than where you live, the item must be "imported" to you from that country. When a seller tells you that your items price includes shipping and handling, remember that they are paying to package and send you the item from their country to your address. But when the item arrives in your country the customs service, a government agency of your country, may charge you a customs fee on the item. The seller has no control over this and is very difficult to anticipate. They vary greatly, You can expect to pay on value about:
USA : 7%-10%
Canada : 8%
EU: 10-15%
These fees will have to be paid when the item is delivered or received at the post office. Like I said the seller has no control over this so remember it is up to you to anticipate these charges. Make sure you purchase your online item from a buyer with a good reputation for international shipping, like iwatchjapan, and that they will provide you with a tracking number that you can use to track the progress of your item.
This is done to ensure that your country receives money for taxation. Most countries have a minimum limit whereby items with a value under that limit are are not taxed. Then custom duties are based on the items category and wether or not your country produces the same products.
If your country has a strong leather industry, then the leather industry in your country forces the government to increase import duties to make other countries companies products competing in the same market more expensive. It is a way that companies force their governments to protect local markets and inhibit foreign trade. I am against it of course because it hurts the consumer and allows local industries to be less competitive. The US auto makers in the 1970's is a good example.
Customs duty - this is usually charged as a percentage of the value. The percentage varies depending on the type of goods and their country of origin. Duty is charged on the price paid for the goods including any local sales taxes plus postage, packing and insurance costs. However, postage is excluded from the calculation for duty on gifts sent by post except for Express Mail Service (EMS).
Under international postal agreements the sender must complete a customs declaration which in most cases should be affixed to the package. The declaration includes a description of the goods, the value and whether they are gifts or commercial items. Any Post Office abroad should be able to give advice to the sender.
Example: The EU. Markets in the EU are very protective. And import duties are high.
Most goods arriving in the EU from outside the EU are liable to any or all of the following taxes:
* customs duty
* excise duty
* import VAT
and must be paid whether:
* you purchase the goods or receive them as a gift;
* the goods are new or used (including antiques)
* the goods are for your private use or for sale
Most goods arriving in the UK from outside the EU are liable to any or all of the following taxes:
* customs duty
* excise duty
* import VAT
and must be paid whether:
* you purchase the goods or receive them as a gift;
* the goods are new or used (including antiques)
* the goods are for your private use or for sale
Goods sent as a gift are not free of import duties and import VAT. However, customs duty will not be collected if the amount is less than £7, and import VAT is not chargeable if:
* the value of the gift does not exceed £36
* the customs declaration is completed correctly
* the gift has been sent from a private person outside the EU to a private person
(s) in their country
* the gift is for the use of either yourself or your family
* there is no commercial or trade element and the gift has not been paid for either
directly or indirectly
* the gift is of an occasional nature only eg for a birthday or anniversary.
Fast Parcel Operators may charge you for processing your package through Customs. These charges are normally collected together with any duty/taxes on delivery but they are not Customs duties. If you need to know the exact cost of these extra charges in advance, you should contact the seller and ask which carrier they will be using to send your goods. You can then contact the carrier and ask what their charges will be.
How to Spot a Fake Louis Vuitton
WAYS TO SPOT A FAKE LOUIS VUITTON WITH EASE.
Remember, one main thing when looking to purchase an AUTHENTIC LOUIS VUITTON piece. LOUIS VUITTON is all about perfection, if you ever see anything less than perfection 99% of the time it is probably a counterfiet bag.
THE TOP WAYS TO SPOT A FAKE:
1. Semmetry: Always make sure the Monograms line up
2. LOUIS VUITTON NEVER cuts off their "LV" logo (only-some vintage items have cut off "LV's", so make sure to check the age of the bag)
3. Always make sure that the leather is vachetta cowhide leather and NOT VINYL! The really bad fakes have the vinyl, but the good fakes that are coming out now, have leather handles, but it isn't the cowhide vachetta leather. The fake bags that have leather, the leather won't patina correctly, as the real vachetta cowhide leather will turn a beautiful honey color with time. The way that I see if the leather is true cowhide leather, is make sure that leather isn't white, most fakes that I have seen have extremely light leather, which AUTHENTIC LOUIS VUITTON's leather doesn't come out that white, even if it is brand new from the store. If the bag's leather has already started the patina process, I look around the handles and other areas of the leather. There is a red glue (not sticky) substance to keep the handles together and used around all leather pieces. On the fake bags that have leather, the glue is usually an orangy color and is usually sticky. Also if you can't tell, make sure that there is an embossed line paralled with the yellow stitching, as this is the sewing line, which is found on all leather pieces.
4. I look at the embossed stamp that usually reads, "LOUIS VUITTON PARIS made in France/Germany/Italy/Spain or U.S.A". Make sure that the two "TT's" don't touch in the word "VUITTON", and also make sure that that "o's" are round "O" and not like "0". These are basic guides but there are exceptions. For example, Each factory uses its own stamp; like a Mint. There are subtle differences from factory to factory. For example most of the logos from the BA factory in France the TT's do touch while most others from other factories do not touch. The following is a listing of all of the two letter codes designations for LV factories. I keep a copy of all logo stamps from these factories, by comparing them, I can id proper fonts to correct factories.
France: A0, A1, A2, AA, AN, AR, AS, BA, BJ, CT, DU, ET, FL, MB, MI, NO, RA, RI, SD, SL, SN, SP, SR, TH, VI
USA: FC, FH, LA, OS, SD
Spain: CA, LO, LB, LM, LW
Italy: CE, SA
Germany: LP
5. Look at the date code, if you know how to decifer the date code (not called a serial number). There should be 2 letters followed by 4 numbers (I will be writing another guide about date codes, so please look at the other guides that I have written). The new fakes, have date codes as well, but I will teach you how to read them in another guide, so please refer to that for more information.
6. Make sure that the item you are looking at is correct, as interior. In brown Monogram canvas it is brown textile lining (in most cases, some have different lining-Manhattan, Viva Cite, Trouville, Bucket, cosmetic pouches, luggage, vanity cases)-I will be writing another guide about interior linings so make sure to read my other guides), black multicolor is grey alcantara lining, white multicolor is red alcantara lining, damier canvas is red alcantara lining (in older models it was a light brown alcantara lining, so check age of bag), Vernis is textile lining that usually is the same color as the exterior of the bag, Epi leather is usually alcantara lining that matches the exterior color of the bag (some bags have bare interior-speedy-keepall).
7. Take a look at the hardware, as they all have different hardware, so make sure the bag you are looking at has the correct hardware. If you aren't sure you can go to LOUIS VUITTON's website and look at their manufacturing pictures to compare.
8. Make sure the bag that you are looking at, was even made. This is hard for limited edition, rare, and VIP items, as they aren't on the website (not often)and catalogues. If you aren't sure if that style wasn't made consult a professional so you can make sure.
9. If the bag that you are looking at, has a required padlock, make sure that the brass is shiny and not a brushed finish. All LOUIS VUITTON locks that I have seen are a brushed finished brass and really cheap looking. There should be an "LV" embossed on the front of the lock, and read, "LOUIS VUITTON PARIS MADE IN FRANCE" on the back, and have the lock number embossed on the bottom beside the keyhole.
10. Look at the canvas (if looking at the collection), make sure that it isn't plastic looking, as most fakes are made from it, and see if the quality looks cheap. LOUIS VUITTON items are very expensive, and wouldn't put out a cheap looking product, so don't forget what I said about PERFECTION!! If you are to have any information that you would like to include to this, please let me know, and I will be more than happy to add this information. If you see anything that might be inaccurate, let me know, and I can consult another LV professional. This guide is built only on my knowledge and personal experiences. iwatchjapan
11. Remember to read feedback scores. Not only that but who is writing them. I would lend more credence to a buyer with a feedback score of 20 to a buyer with a feedback score of 2. Both are important, but some may be more knowledgeable tan others.
12. I would also give more credence to a power seller than a non power seller, not much, but some.
13. Does the seller have a store homepage ? These cost money and can be traced. Chances are you can trust what they say.
14. Due diligence is the buyers responsibility, learn as much as you can and ask questions of the seller. Begin with " Is this an authentic Louis Vuitton Bag, and will you refund me if it isn't ?" If the answer is not positive or quick then move on, don't buy it. If it seems to good to be true, then it is.
15. Lastly, if you buy a fake bag then you will be getting a piece of junk that will fall apart soon. Real Louis Vuitton Bags last a life time and retain their value. If you buy a used bag and take care of it, you can sell it at any time for what you paid.
Remember, one main thing when looking to purchase an AUTHENTIC LOUIS VUITTON piece. LOUIS VUITTON is all about perfection, if you ever see anything less than perfection 99% of the time it is probably a counterfiet bag.
THE TOP WAYS TO SPOT A FAKE:
1. Semmetry: Always make sure the Monograms line up
2. LOUIS VUITTON NEVER cuts off their "LV" logo (only-some vintage items have cut off "LV's", so make sure to check the age of the bag)
3. Always make sure that the leather is vachetta cowhide leather and NOT VINYL! The really bad fakes have the vinyl, but the good fakes that are coming out now, have leather handles, but it isn't the cowhide vachetta leather. The fake bags that have leather, the leather won't patina correctly, as the real vachetta cowhide leather will turn a beautiful honey color with time. The way that I see if the leather is true cowhide leather, is make sure that leather isn't white, most fakes that I have seen have extremely light leather, which AUTHENTIC LOUIS VUITTON's leather doesn't come out that white, even if it is brand new from the store. If the bag's leather has already started the patina process, I look around the handles and other areas of the leather. There is a red glue (not sticky) substance to keep the handles together and used around all leather pieces. On the fake bags that have leather, the glue is usually an orangy color and is usually sticky. Also if you can't tell, make sure that there is an embossed line paralled with the yellow stitching, as this is the sewing line, which is found on all leather pieces.
4. I look at the embossed stamp that usually reads, "LOUIS VUITTON PARIS made in France/Germany/Italy/Spain or U.S.A". Make sure that the two "TT's" don't touch in the word "VUITTON", and also make sure that that "o's" are round "O" and not like "0". These are basic guides but there are exceptions. For example, Each factory uses its own stamp; like a Mint. There are subtle differences from factory to factory. For example most of the logos from the BA factory in France the TT's do touch while most others from other factories do not touch. The following is a listing of all of the two letter codes designations for LV factories. I keep a copy of all logo stamps from these factories, by comparing them, I can id proper fonts to correct factories.
France: A0, A1, A2, AA, AN, AR, AS, BA, BJ, CT, DU, ET, FL, MB, MI, NO, RA, RI, SD, SL, SN, SP, SR, TH, VI
USA: FC, FH, LA, OS, SD
Spain: CA, LO, LB, LM, LW
Italy: CE, SA
Germany: LP
5. Look at the date code, if you know how to decifer the date code (not called a serial number). There should be 2 letters followed by 4 numbers (I will be writing another guide about date codes, so please look at the other guides that I have written). The new fakes, have date codes as well, but I will teach you how to read them in another guide, so please refer to that for more information.
6. Make sure that the item you are looking at is correct, as interior. In brown Monogram canvas it is brown textile lining (in most cases, some have different lining-Manhattan, Viva Cite, Trouville, Bucket, cosmetic pouches, luggage, vanity cases)-I will be writing another guide about interior linings so make sure to read my other guides), black multicolor is grey alcantara lining, white multicolor is red alcantara lining, damier canvas is red alcantara lining (in older models it was a light brown alcantara lining, so check age of bag), Vernis is textile lining that usually is the same color as the exterior of the bag, Epi leather is usually alcantara lining that matches the exterior color of the bag (some bags have bare interior-speedy-keepall).
7. Take a look at the hardware, as they all have different hardware, so make sure the bag you are looking at has the correct hardware. If you aren't sure you can go to LOUIS VUITTON's website and look at their manufacturing pictures to compare.
8. Make sure the bag that you are looking at, was even made. This is hard for limited edition, rare, and VIP items, as they aren't on the website (not often)and catalogues. If you aren't sure if that style wasn't made consult a professional so you can make sure.
9. If the bag that you are looking at, has a required padlock, make sure that the brass is shiny and not a brushed finish. All LOUIS VUITTON locks that I have seen are a brushed finished brass and really cheap looking. There should be an "LV" embossed on the front of the lock, and read, "LOUIS VUITTON PARIS MADE IN FRANCE" on the back, and have the lock number embossed on the bottom beside the keyhole.
10. Look at the canvas (if looking at the collection), make sure that it isn't plastic looking, as most fakes are made from it, and see if the quality looks cheap. LOUIS VUITTON items are very expensive, and wouldn't put out a cheap looking product, so don't forget what I said about PERFECTION!! If you are to have any information that you would like to include to this, please let me know, and I will be more than happy to add this information. If you see anything that might be inaccurate, let me know, and I can consult another LV professional. This guide is built only on my knowledge and personal experiences. iwatchjapan
11. Remember to read feedback scores. Not only that but who is writing them. I would lend more credence to a buyer with a feedback score of 20 to a buyer with a feedback score of 2. Both are important, but some may be more knowledgeable tan others.
12. I would also give more credence to a power seller than a non power seller, not much, but some.
13. Does the seller have a store homepage ? These cost money and can be traced. Chances are you can trust what they say.
14. Due diligence is the buyers responsibility, learn as much as you can and ask questions of the seller. Begin with " Is this an authentic Louis Vuitton Bag, and will you refund me if it isn't ?" If the answer is not positive or quick then move on, don't buy it. If it seems to good to be true, then it is.
15. Lastly, if you buy a fake bag then you will be getting a piece of junk that will fall apart soon. Real Louis Vuitton Bags last a life time and retain their value. If you buy a used bag and take care of it, you can sell it at any time for what you paid.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
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